Skip to main content

Preventing Over-heating and Corrosion In Your Car

For hotrod, sports cars and older cars, especially cars that are infrequently driven, overheating and corrosion are all too common problems.

Many people are surprised to learn that the traditional 50/50 mix of water and anti-freeze is not the most efficient way to cool your engines. Water alone is the most efficient medium, but there are two problems associated with water as the only coolant. First, water will freeze in the winter and usually cracks the engine block. Second, antifreeze includes corrosion inhibitors and water pump lubricant, both necessary for you cooling system.

Here's how to get around those problems.

  • Replace your drain petcock with a sacrificial zinc anode or have an appropriate-sized bung added to your radiator. These anodes are commonly used in marine engines and - surprise - the hot water heater in you house uses one. It's proven technology and you can buy them at boating supply stores or Amazon.
  • Add a surfactant like Water Wetter, available at auto parts stores. This product reduces the surface tension of the coolant keeping bubbles from forming, increasing coolant to metal contact and improving the transfer of heat to the coolant.
  • To replace the corrosion inhibitors and water pump lubricant, just add a bottle of  the very same thing, also found at auto parts stores.

In the spring, drain all the coolant from the system, add the above ingredients to refill your radiator and top off with distilled water (never tap water - too many minerals and electrolytes that will cause scale and corrosion). Most importantly, write down how much water you use to fill the radiator because

In the fall when cold weather is upon us in the fall, drain one-half of the water and replace with anti-freeze whether you will be driving your car in the cold or not. Why go to all this trouble? To keep your engine block from cracking as water expands when frozen . . . or don't -- it's your call.


Every Spring and Fall: Lather. Rise. Repeat.

Comments

Popular posts from this blog

HOW TO MAKE SPRINGS by Dave Silberstein

Until a few years ago, Dave Silberstein maintained a great site at EarthLink that delved into the mysteries of making springs. It was very extensive. If you needed to make a spring, his site helped you do it. He even went so far as to publish the site contents in book form at Lulu.com. Sadly, both the site and the book are no longer available because Mr. Silberstein passed away in 2012 in a car accident. Such a valuable resource should not be lost. Fortunately, the Internet  has kept an archived copy. Here's the site map so you can get an idea of what's available and also so the search engines will pick it up. HOW TO MAKE SPRINGS Introduction Disclaimer, preface, description of the main types of springs Design General principles, mathematics, design limitations, buying design Materials Types of wire and their attributes, buying wire Saf...

WTF is a Franzinator?

Sometimes the most useful things have the oddest names. Take the Franzinator, for instance. Named after Franz©, its curmudgeonly inventor, the Franzinator is a device used to separate moisture from compressed air. Having moisture in compressed air is not a a good thing, especially in painting where it contaminates the painted surface, or in media blasting where it causes the media to clump and not work as well. As well as causing rust in the air tanks and air tools, moisture is best removed. A number of methods have been developed from expensive refrigerated driers used to pre-condition air before it gets to the compressor, to simple mechanical separators that sit in the air line between the tanks and the air tool. Here is a tank that uses a chemical desiccant to dry the air. There are also ways to install the air lines that are intended to either cause moisture to condense or collect before it is sent to the air tool. A non-mechanical separator causes the moisture in the hotte...

Atlas No. 64 Drill Press Clockspring

The clockspring for my Atlas No.64 drill press (the spring in the quill) is broken and I need a replacement. So far, I've been unsuccessful in locating one the correct size and would appreciate a lead on one that will fit.