tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-14408360469407656222024-03-06T01:33:24.599-05:00Route 60 GarageRoute 60 Garagehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14823453722775480673noreply@blogger.comBlogger29125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1440836046940765622.post-62059497687542163842020-08-26T16:17:00.001-04:002020-08-26T16:17:29.629-04:00Atlas No. 64 Drill Press Clockspring<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4A0JD95Jq2e0m6yfFyDLDUcv8fQ23k4HzvfcZMpunjSS7arQ70Eio4lX9CW1MirRbv16vR05o4qQQ5kxZ9lgZbr2Rhk3SXp0s_ugTUwFD-pPfX1UF7ZUFBoH_U3CwHvTnc6NKHttlYf8/s1600/shop-Atlas-Press-2018-02-05+16.57.43.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4A0JD95Jq2e0m6yfFyDLDUcv8fQ23k4HzvfcZMpunjSS7arQ70Eio4lX9CW1MirRbv16vR05o4qQQ5kxZ9lgZbr2Rhk3SXp0s_ugTUwFD-pPfX1UF7ZUFBoH_U3CwHvTnc6NKHttlYf8/s320/shop-Atlas-Press-2018-02-05+16.57.43.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
<br />The clockspring for my Atlas No.64 drill press (the spring in the quill) is broken and I need a replacement. So far, I've been unsuccessful in locating one the correct size and would appreciate a lead on one that will fit.<br />
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Route 60 Garagehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14823453722775480673noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1440836046940765622.post-47547012586800332002019-02-03T14:59:00.001-05:002021-01-14T15:06:14.948-05:00Quick Change Tool Posts for Vintage LathesMy recently acquired Logan 400 9" lathe was originally equipped with and currently uses lantern-style or rocker-style toolholders. While effective, they are a pain to work with because they can be awkward and difficult to adjust properly, and by properly, I mean that the cutting point of the tool must be at the centerline of the lathe. This is because the cutting geometry must be correct to be not only efficient, but capable of producing a good finish.<br />
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<a href="https://www.picclickimg.com/d/l400/pict/142701062337_/Lantern-Style-Tool-Post-With-Wrench-Bar.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="300" data-original-width="400" height="240" src="https://www.picclickimg.com/d/l400/pict/142701062337_/Lantern-Style-Tool-Post-With-Wrench-Bar.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
This is the toolholder (and wrench). The long serrated piece of metal is the rocker that is used to adjust the vertical angle of the tool that holds the cutting bit. The threading tool is inserted in the toolholder. Of course, the toolpost is intended to be held in the compound slide of the lathe.<br /><br />The benefit to this style of toolholder? They are usually included with vintage lathes when you buy one. The downside besides the inconvenience of adjustment? The tools themselves are about $30 each and only accommodate one size of HSS bits.<br /><br />Enter the Aloris-style toolholders. They come in two basic types: piston and wedge, with the wedge being believed to be superior. There are also several different types of toolholders that attach to the QCTP (Quick Change Tool Post), depending on the cutting tool you want to use.<br /><br />Several sizes are available that are scaled to be appropriate to the height of your spindle centerline above your lathe bed. The two most popular hobbyist sizes are 0XA for mini-lathes and AXA for 9-12" lathes. The BXA quick-change tool post is designed for lathes with swings from 12” to 15”.<br /><br /><a href="https://littlemachineshop.com/info/qctp.php">Little Machine Shop offers a good discussion on the choices available.</a> It also lists the swing heights appropriate for the toolpost size.<br /><br />Imports version are available on eBay and Amazon and, of course, directly from Aloris. It all depends on the money you want to spend and the precision and reliability you need.<br />
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<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEip39yuMGpU8nFNp91vP71_sl_AuENkAf4wYyz8AfzcGUdDEzB5DVN-mzpHPLoWzIF0552JyA-x24cU9JodqXP0VoVwxsChiMjvx6HotuCXuzd3xzS5-J4MuRmWKwGDOeL4zKc04xz65dI/s400/%2524_1.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="282" data-original-width="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEip39yuMGpU8nFNp91vP71_sl_AuENkAf4wYyz8AfzcGUdDEzB5DVN-mzpHPLoWzIF0552JyA-x24cU9JodqXP0VoVwxsChiMjvx6HotuCXuzd3xzS5-J4MuRmWKwGDOeL4zKc04xz65dI/s320/%2524_1.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><br />Route 60 Garagehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14823453722775480673noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1440836046940765622.post-49491918194876219642018-05-23T11:05:00.001-04:002018-05-23T11:05:24.267-04:00Adding inexpensive DRO to older equipment<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9XPEUCyQ38SMnEkq9KgcGbZFD70moiAZyeQHEqOpvUFlww_-OoexvEuRlbwnvVOD52uNOSaiXnrZrUuPMF6C1Ub1pyrJzvnJQwPTnSw3GmDhhRwLD6MzLtL9BaZPuSrAx4DIOZER2fbI/s1600/DRO.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="539" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9XPEUCyQ38SMnEkq9KgcGbZFD70moiAZyeQHEqOpvUFlww_-OoexvEuRlbwnvVOD52uNOSaiXnrZrUuPMF6C1Ub1pyrJzvnJQwPTnSw3GmDhhRwLD6MzLtL9BaZPuSrAx4DIOZER2fbI/s320/DRO.jpg" width="178" /></a></div>
If you decide to go with this brand, be sure to get the “EZ-VIEW” model. There are still a lot of their previous models available and they’re not nearly as functional and have much less capabilities. These really did change my world as far as milling and using the machine.<br />
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It was on eBay and the sellers handle is <b>taylortoolworksllc</b>.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgH9v_bXIMddnxZ1utLFH4ewUlbysXd4e1jmm1IRABxU9fXTe3YlpTWCMQ6ClPmDsFgq4uQdApIKBR03OYGR7-KpcwWq9TwXMVg3auYrWXMVGWdsSX_Ufzb7jLbxC3p2iWdwmBX7CrxxI4/s1600/DRO2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="960" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgH9v_bXIMddnxZ1utLFH4ewUlbysXd4e1jmm1IRABxU9fXTe3YlpTWCMQ6ClPmDsFgq4uQdApIKBR03OYGR7-KpcwWq9TwXMVg3auYrWXMVGWdsSX_Ufzb7jLbxC3p2iWdwmBX7CrxxI4/s320/DRO2.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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If I remember correctly, I bought a 6” for Z (the quill) a 24” for X and a 12” for Y. As I said in another reply – you can cut the scales to any length you want. I welded up a “very” sturdy mount that had some rotation for perfect viewing.<br /><br />SOURCE: Home Machine Shop Facebook Page, 5-23-18.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVEh3YzN52rd9hgGuGl4lvGWlIR5F3tqJYwj9kCg_oe035XJMo7hqbnDNJcriqln5_4vox7SqHO28VMSGv_8pgTC4O6BO1z0ZDEHx4MqHx9zBZ4A11x0SAP95XNeMG7QcPEA1CIZSt8PM/s1600/DRO3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="720" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVEh3YzN52rd9hgGuGl4lvGWlIR5F3tqJYwj9kCg_oe035XJMo7hqbnDNJcriqln5_4vox7SqHO28VMSGv_8pgTC4O6BO1z0ZDEHx4MqHx9zBZ4A11x0SAP95XNeMG7QcPEA1CIZSt8PM/s320/DRO3.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
Route 60 Garagehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14823453722775480673noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1440836046940765622.post-807650671017110122017-11-01T15:53:00.003-04:002018-05-23T11:43:22.081-04:00Some Very Cool Tools.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbzFOEmqNZ_yOb-9CbUbPeZ9-qF-gZkhq_mgwWL2yBrPbAsugeKXz9h0Vw6yO4k7Wlbx3IvzVYU2WTJL7BEAS744YdqNd99EcoHpA0Qnb9f9PhehsFlLAegNb-Nco1TnEL3ZRfx2sleLY/s1600/hardinge.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbzFOEmqNZ_yOb-9CbUbPeZ9-qF-gZkhq_mgwWL2yBrPbAsugeKXz9h0Vw6yO4k7Wlbx3IvzVYU2WTJL7BEAS744YdqNd99EcoHpA0Qnb9f9PhehsFlLAegNb-Nco1TnEL3ZRfx2sleLY/s320/hardinge.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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At <a href="http://aafradio.org/">aafradio.org</a>, there is a boatload of information concerning military radio restoration. Included is a cornucopia of information on the tools used to do this. Fascination stuff for a radiohead or a toolhead.<br />
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Above is a 1965 Hardinge HLV-H used for manufacturing missing parts from military aircraft radio equipment. The author of the site also has restored some of the machinery he employs.<br />
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Additional tools can be found <a href="http://aafradio.org/garajmahal/">here</a>.Route 60 Garagehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14823453722775480673noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1440836046940765622.post-87138887445209835932017-10-21T16:30:00.000-04:002017-10-21T16:43:11.411-04:00Retrofit Hydroboost Brakes <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXfDvKzeDF0rqO8CkSY4AJ6x88SiBUEL0R7ikeYdRjZPIMbB0_Z6Fg4KgifVQuOMknZb1NqwVah2cTfYCs3z9hRnqrpCRZE6MFS0pyz71F0KGXhilXY8FihLMeRT5yYHAc-TZ2RzmUL2c/s1600/HYD.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="338" data-original-width="500" height="216" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXfDvKzeDF0rqO8CkSY4AJ6x88SiBUEL0R7ikeYdRjZPIMbB0_Z6Fg4KgifVQuOMknZb1NqwVah2cTfYCs3z9hRnqrpCRZE6MFS0pyz71F0KGXhilXY8FihLMeRT5yYHAc-TZ2RzmUL2c/s320/HYD.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
Traditional power brakes have used engine vacuum to reduce the physical effort required to stop a car. Some high performance engines, because of the design of their camshafts, do not produce enough vacuum to used vacuum-powered brake power boosters. One alternative is to add a vacuum pump to the accessories driven by the engine. Another is to use the hydraulic pressure supplied by the power steering pump to power the brake booster. This device is called Hydroboost and it replaces the vacuum-operated brake booster. It provides more than twice the pressure than a vacuum diaphragm booster.<br /><br />
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There are commercial kits to use a hydraulic booster, like <a href="http://www.vancopbs.com/category_s/66.htm">Vanco</a>. They offer kits to match the car you are modifying. The most complete kits provide the Hydroboost unit, a new master brake cylinder, a power steering pump and the appropriate hoses with fittings and they are priced at around $900. You can see the parts of the kit by visiting <a href="http://www.vancopbs.com/category_s/66.htm">this link</a>. A nice step-by-step installation of the Vanco hydraulic booster is available at <a href="http://stu-offroad.com/suspension/vanco/hydroboost-1.htm">Stu-Offroad</a>. It is very thorough and has lots of pictures and useful links to related information. Note that the hydraulic unit itself can be "clocked" by 180 degrees in case you need to route the hydraulic lines differently.<br />
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Here's the thing, the Hydroboost units themselves are only as far away as your local boneyard and cost $100 to $200. A list of potential donor cars is at <a href="http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/hydroboost-donor-cars-92884.html">Hotrodders.com</a> and <a href="http://forums.off-road.com/jeep-short-wheelbase/119062-hydroboost-donor-vehicles.html">Off-Road Forums</a>. Re-manufactured units are available from eBay from $150 and up, and new units are also available from the local auto parts stores. The most common unit is an <a href="https://www.stockwiseauto.com/a1-cardone-52-7359-power-brake-booster?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIhfmIycaC1wIVV57ACh3XeQl6EAYYAiABEgLHAPD_BwE&ymm_gid=1&gsID=pwf309126g1&">A1 Cardone 52-7359</a>. Your car already has a brake master cylinder, so there's no need to replace that. All that leaves are the hoses and fittings. The size of the fittings will vary depending on the donor vehicle.<br />
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<a href="http://www.hydratechbraking.com/">Hydratech Braking Systems</a> also provides all-new-component kits where one option is a "full show" finish on the components. They also offer hose fittings and c<a href="http://www.hydratechbraking.com/hose_fittings.html">omplete hose sets</a>.<br />
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Here is a <a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20080821043929/http://www.angryamerica.com/chevelles/hydroboost.html">HOWTO page</a> with lots of pictures created by a customer of Hydratech. It is useful for the excellent pictures and a very detailed dialog about the process.<br />
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At the <a href="https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/hydro-boost-brakes.240786/">Jalopy Journal</a>, there's a discussion about Hydroboost brakes. A fellow who used a unit from a Lincoln Versailles makes the excellent point that if you are using a boneyard unit, get all the hoses associated with it.<br />
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<a href="https://bangshift.com/general-news/tech-stories/tech-how-to-swap-a-junkyard-hyrdoboost-on-your-classic-gm-muscle-car-or-truck/">BANGshift offers a </a>HOWTO for a Hydroboost upgrade of your truck or muscle car. Many good pictures.<br />
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A DIY HOWTO is provided by <a href="http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f30/chevy-hydroboost-conversion-213640/">The Diesel Stop</a>, and addresses modifying mounting holes to fit the device on your vehicle.<br />
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<a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20090308112457/http://www.geocities.com/casanoc/">Carl Casanova's 1968 Camaro Home Page</a> discusses, among other things, his homemade approach to adding Hydroboost brakes to his Camaro. He uses a 1999 Mustang unit which differs from GM units in that the attachment bolts are vertical, not horizontal.<br />
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A <a href="https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c3-tech-performance/1939709-hydroboost-conversion.html">Corvette Forum</a> discussion claims that the units from a 1994-95 Astro van are adapted to GM cars with the least amount of trouble.<br />
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The <a href="http://www.thehollisterroadcompany.com/hydroboost.html">Hollister Road Company</a> offers a thorough HOWTO of how to adapt these units and includes some nice fabrication tips as well as <a href="http://www.thehollisterroadcompany.com/589ss/Images/boost%20lines.jpg">a hand-drawn illustration</a> of how these are plumbed that is more useful than anything else I've seen. They also include more detailed information about hose fittings.<br />
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The forum at <a href="http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=202888">67-72 Chevy Trucks</a> also provides a HOWTO of a Hydroboost (from the Hollister Road Company) installation using a unit from a 2001 Chevy Silverado. The unit itself is identified as an <a href="https://www.stockwiseauto.com/a1-cardone-52-7359-power-brake-booster?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIhfmIycaC1wIVV57ACh3XeQl6EAYYAiABEgLHAPD_BwE&ymm_gid=1&gsID=pwf309126g1&">A1-Cardone # 52-7359 </a>that comes with a diagram to identify the ports ($95 plus $44 core deposit). This discussion also deals with fabricating a bracket to suspend the brake pedal. What is discussed here and I have not seen discussed elsewhere is the output pushrod, retainer and spring. These pieces connect the Hydroboost unit to your master cylinder, so they are important.<br />
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Super Chevy has an article about installing a Hydroboost unit in a '68 Camaro. The pictures are good, but as a HOWTO, not much help. The unit was provided by, I believe, <a href="http://www.powerbrakeservice.net/">Power Brake Service</a>. They offer quite a variety of power brakes components.<br />
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There are, of course, several YouTube HOWTO videos on Hydroboost conversions. YMMV<br />
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Car Done provides an <a href="http://my.cardone.com/techdocs/930394-52.pdf">installation guide</a> in PDF format, which includes some useful diagrams and a trouble-shooting guide.<br />
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GM Fullsize offers a <a href="http://www.gmfullsize.com/threads/hydroboost-install-how-to-with-pics.156800/">HOWTO</a> using a boneyard-sourced Hydroboost unit and hoses from Autozone. This is probably the most thorough guide to the pats needed and the procedures needed I've seen.<br />
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Speaking of AutoZone, they offer a <a href="http://www.autozone.com/repairinfo/repairguide/repairGuideContent.jsp?pageId=0900c1528004c7fc">Hydroboost Repair Guide</a> with illustrations, testing and troubleshooting information.<br />
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Hot Rod Magazine offers a <a href="http://www.hotrod.com/articles/ccrp-0903-improve-braking-with-a-hydroboost-install/">very brief HOWTO</a>, but the pictures are worth viewing. It seems similar to the Super Chevy offering above as well as<a href="http://www.hotrod.com/articles/ccrp-1105-chevy-astro-van-hydroboost-salvage/"> this one</a> from Car Craft, Mat 2011 by Douglas Glad, which was the first article to bring it to my attention.<br />
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Also of interest are electric-powered brake boosters (not very reliable) and the very intriguing electric power steering units popular on small foreign cars.<br />
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While a used Hydroboost may be the way to go as far as price is concerned, there may be issues such as a worn-out or malfunctioning unit which may be problematic to troubleshoot.<br />
<br />Route 60 Garagehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14823453722775480673noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1440836046940765622.post-7599316594836324452017-09-22T10:15:00.002-04:002017-09-22T11:36:28.157-04:00The Miracle of 12V RelaysDo you want to wire your car so that the Accessory circuit stays on until you open the door after you have turned off the ignition, like many modern cars? Built your own remote start system? Control headlights with a latching relay?<br />
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<a href="https://www.the12volt.com/relays/page5.asp">This page</a> at <a href="http://www.the12volt.com/">The 12 Volt</a> explains how to do that with standard 5-pin 12-volt relays. The entire site is dedicated to similar "tricks of the trade".<br /><br />At <a href="http://hotrodders.com/">Hotrodders.com</a>, <a href="http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/Relay_application_guide">this page</a> provides an overview of automotive uses of relays. This page also offers links to other useful pages, including <a href="http://www.danielsternlighting.com/home.html">headlight relays</a>, assorted <a href="http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/Wiring_diagrams">car wiring diagrams</a>, <a href="http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/Automotive_wiring_101">auto wiring basics</a> and a <a href="http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/Power_windows_with_wire_eliminators_in_the_jams">fix for power windows</a> that use those stupid "wiring eliminators" in the door jambs.<br />
<br />Here,<a href="https://www.azatrax.com/latching-relay.html"> mechanical latching relays</a> are explained.<br /><br />GM-style power window switches are Dorman <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-901-018-Power-Window-Switch/dp/B000TYOFI0">901-018</a> or <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-49243-Power-Window-Switch/dp/B000C5C9SY">49243</a> and the special pigtail is <a href="https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-PT185-Original-Equipment-Pigtail/dp/B000C9VWLK">ACDelco PT185</a>. A wiring diagram is found <a href="https://www.watsons-streetworks.com/image/data/L39-5B2-2X.pdf">here</a>.<br /><br />
A 12-volt latching relay is <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Latching-Relay-Pins-Square-12VDC/dp/B000LEQXV0/">here</a>.<br /><br />Neutral Safety switch operation, wiring and installation <a href="http://www.ididitinc.com/ft-3078-tech-tips.html#q33641">information</a>.Route 60 Garagehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14823453722775480673noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1440836046940765622.post-27317695358671216362017-09-20T17:15:00.001-04:002017-09-22T11:36:47.923-04:00O-Ringing the Block and Heads for Higher Compression Engines HOWTOI found some useful advice in this forum thread from user AK's REX.<br />
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"To my understanding o-ringing the block or the head prove to be about equally effective. That said I would say it depends if you want to have receiver grooves machined. The most conventional method is to machine and o-ring the block, then machine receiver grooves opposite the o-rings in the heads. I guess it can probably be done in reverse fashion as well.<br />
As far as the receiver grooves are concerned, it not only helps in high compression and or boosted applications, but helps wet motors from losing fluid which is a common problem with copper head gaskets. It allows the o-ring to literally push the gasket into the receiver groove to provide a better seal. Speaking of copper gaskets here is a bit of info from SCE regarding this stuff;<br />
O-ring grooves may be cut in either the block or cylinder head. When using copper head gaskets thinner than .050, O-ring height should be no more than 25% of gasket thickness. For instance, the proper dimensions for an .043 thick gasket using .041 wire would be; a .038 to .040 groove width (provides a .001 interference fit), and a .032 groove depth (leaves .008-.010 of the wire protruding above the deck). This machining can be done at most high performance machine shops.<br />
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When receiver grooves are necessary, alignment of O-ring and receiver groove is critical, as is the depth and width of the receiver groove. Generally receiver groove depth should be 75% of the O-ring protrusion and the receiver groove should be 1.5 times the wire width. Example: If the O-ring is .041 wide and .015 above the deck; receiver groove should be .012 deep and .060 wide.<br />
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While the machining of O-ring and receiver grooves must be done by a machinist, the installation of the O-ring wire can be done by anyone, using common hand tools. When tapping O-ring wire into the groove, use care to avoid denting the wire. SCE provides an O-ring installation kit, (SCE PART #31542) which includes instructions, an installation tool and O-ring wire. When cutting stainless O-ring wire, file the ends square to provide the tightest possible seal."<br />
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Source: <a href="https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1021810">NASIOC Forums</a><br />
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Route 60 Garagehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14823453722775480673noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1440836046940765622.post-26473189431906153252017-05-09T13:08:00.001-04:002018-03-30T10:23:24.028-04:00A Heat Insulation Spray-on Coating Alternative to Lizard Skin.<div style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0in;">
One of the
well-known spray-on heat-shield products is Lizard Skin. From their
website, “LizardSkin Ceramic Insulation (CI) is an advanced spray
on thermal coating that consists of a water-based composition of
high-grade acrylic binders with ceramic insulation particles to
create a thermal barrier.” The Material Safety Data Sheet (commonly referred to as the MSDS) can be
found <a href="https://www.lizardskin.com/assets/files/Safety-Data-Sheet-LSCI-6-1-2015.pdf">here</a>.</div>
<div style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0in;">
This sheet shows the
composition of Lizard Skin as:</div>
<div style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0in;">
1 - Water 7732-18-5
40-50%</div>
<div style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0in;">
2 - Resin Polymer
00-00-00 20-30%</div>
<div style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0in;">
3 - Trade Secret
Insulation Media 10-20%</div>
<div style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0in;">
4 - Carbon Black
1333-86-4 5-10%</div>
<div style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0in;">
5 - Extender Pigment
1317-65-3 1-5%
</div>
<div style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0in;">
It’s relatively
expensive at $200 for two gallons. They sell a special gun ($120) to
spray it on although it can be applied with a brush or roller.</div>
<div style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="line-height: 16px;"><b>Substitutes</b></span></div>
<div style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0in;">
It's possible to make your own for much less cost.</div>
<div style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="line-height: 100%;">1 – High solids
white latex ceiling paint.</span><br />
<span style="line-height: 100%;"><br /></span>
<span style="line-height: 100%;">2 - Acrylic Polymer Resin - increases paint flow and durability. One source is <a href="http://www.hytechsales.com/supplies.html">Acri-Flow</a> from HyTechSales.com up to 1 pint per gallon.</span><br />
<span style="line-height: 100%;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0in;">
3 – <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Glass_microsphere">Glass Microspheres</a> - One
supplier is HyTechSales.com, mixing at the rate of one quart of
spheres per gallon of paint, but some sources indicate that as many as 3 quarts of spheres per gallon should be used.</div>
<div style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br />
4 – Carbon Black pigment is
added to give Lizard Skin its distinctive purple/black color. Any
color - or none at all - is OK and can be sourced at your local paint store.</div>
<br />
<div style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0in;">
5 – <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Calcium_carbonate">Calcium Carbonate</a> (pulverized dolomitic limestone) adds bulk and texture,
sourced at <a href="https://www.amazon.com/NOW-Calcium-Carbonate-Powder-12-Ounces/dp/B004421K68?th=1">Amazon</a> or hardware stores.<br />
<br />
<b>To Spray</b><br />You can rent an
airless paint sprayer. Use the largest tip available (.019-.024) and remove the
filter screens from both the suction tube and inside the handle. The
application thickness should be that of a credit card.<br />
<br />
<b>For Heat and Noise Control</b>Apply the Lizard Skin-type spray-on coating, then add squares of DynaMat or similar product when fully dry. It's not necessary to cover the entire panel in DynaMat like they show you in the car magazines, small squares or long strips will do just as well. <br /><br /><b>Out-of-the-Box Alternatives to Lizard Skin</b><br /><a href="http://www.hytechsales.com/prodsc.html">Hy-Tech SC#1000 Sound Control Coasting</a> appears to be a product similar to Lizard Skin for both sound and heat control.<br />
<br />
<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;">RESOURCES</span></b><br />
<br />
There are several forum discussion threads about various substitutes and application details.<br /><br /><a href="http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/alternative-lizard-skin-103610.html">Alternative Lizard Skin</a></div>
<div style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<a href="http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/lizard-skin-application-questions-134551.html">lizard Skin Application Questions</a></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="line-height: 16px;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<a href="http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/Ceramic_insulation">Ceramic Insulation</a><br />
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="line-height: 16px;"><a href="http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/anyone-used-lizard-skin-77796.html">Anyone Used Lizard Skin?</a></span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<a href="http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/kizard-skin-vs-dynamat-235881.html">Lizard Skin versus Dynamat</a></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="line-height: 16px;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<a href="https://www.lizardskin.com/">Lizard Skin Homepage</a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.dynamat.com/">Dynamat Homepage</a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://hytechsales.com/insulating_paint_additives.html">Hy-Tech Ceramic Paint Additive</a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.hytechsales.com/prodsc.html">Hy-Tech Sound Reduction Paint</a><br />
<br /></div>
Route 60 Garagehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14823453722775480673noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1440836046940765622.post-77340050048733497892017-02-05T17:56:00.001-05:002017-02-05T17:56:08.522-05:00A more efficient fan shroud<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQsyfi_ZA3HKEg3Uhcq2UE6Rpuijl1Qn3JRHYnCT07z4B4qD8rIKR0SY246p3DA3LcZf83K5Fjy2rEOAfsLvIYwUnRVhiGfsEWTt7GhKeF-Dgns6fnQzr-TvgFbxRTGv45GmJdo_QTgXs/s1600/41tUZ4y1syL._SL500_.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="269" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQsyfi_ZA3HKEg3Uhcq2UE6Rpuijl1Qn3JRHYnCT07z4B4qD8rIKR0SY246p3DA3LcZf83K5Fjy2rEOAfsLvIYwUnRVhiGfsEWTt7GhKeF-Dgns6fnQzr-TvgFbxRTGv45GmJdo_QTgXs/s320/41tUZ4y1syL._SL500_.jpg" width="320" /></a><br />Volvo has developed and patented this idea for their over the road trucks, but there's no reason it can't work on smaller vehicles. The ring surrounding the fan is fixed to the engine block so the ring can be much closer to the fan blades and so i more efficient. Not obvious from the diagram is that the fan shroud is a flexible material, sealed to the radiator and the ring.</div>
<br />Route 60 Garagehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14823453722775480673noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1440836046940765622.post-37886146037335113242017-02-04T12:47:00.003-05:002021-07-25T18:48:57.349-04:00Preventing Over-heating and Corrosion In Your CarFor hotrod, sports cars and older cars, especially cars that are infrequently driven, overheating and corrosion are all too common problems.<br />
<br />
Many people are surprised to learn that the traditional 50/50 mix of water and anti-freeze is not the most efficient way to cool your engines. Water alone is the most efficient medium, but there are two problems associated with water as the only coolant. First, water will freeze in the winter and usually cracks the engine block. Second, antifreeze includes corrosion inhibitors and water pump lubricant, both necessary for you cooling system.<br />
<br />
Here's how to get around those problems.<br />
<br />
<ul>
<li>Replace your drain petcock with a <a href="https://www.amazon.com/NW-LEISURE-Trailer-Saver-Heater/dp/B01KR7BSWY/">sacrificial zinc anode</a> or have an appropriate-sized bung added to your radiator. These anodes are commonly used in marine engines and - surprise - the hot water heater in you house uses one. It's proven technology and you can buy them at boating supply stores or Amazon.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0cn0llwPmv2l9sJbGpJYsFPv0L8cF1CT7MKkPjda_wyUmYWkQUEdpQxomx53hyphenhyphen9t7DYvobltS3dkh7VK75jvdJAyTFiSONRQMb5kv-w9235K71FrTIGhYLB7O03HOUCaBUB1aZ8uMwuc/s1600/61k%252Bkm1cdrL._AC_UL115_.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0cn0llwPmv2l9sJbGpJYsFPv0L8cF1CT7MKkPjda_wyUmYWkQUEdpQxomx53hyphenhyphen9t7DYvobltS3dkh7VK75jvdJAyTFiSONRQMb5kv-w9235K71FrTIGhYLB7O03HOUCaBUB1aZ8uMwuc/s1600/61k%252Bkm1cdrL._AC_UL115_.jpg" /></a></div>
</li>
<li>Add a <a href="https://www.amazon.com/NW-LEISURE-Trailer-Saver-Heater/dp/B01KR7BSWY/">surfactant</a> like <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Red-Line-80204-Water-Wetter/dp/B000CPI5ZK" target="_blank">Water Wetter</a>, available at auto parts stores. This product reduces the surface tension of the coolant keeping bubbles from forming, increasing coolant to metal contact and improving the transfer of heat to the coolant.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcLQHoTNwXS414E2vKhxJJqC8_JpO_6xW2NzGhQ_B3YjYBdKivurANwVNI8imE4Wfgz-UX5_37jGt9Nyz8_0WT27m_rGtz_ARJikv42wdyPaG45wCyFwT5Ggv2uUCtiSFil0V0bnUc77Y/s1600/61yiBTk9HSL._SY679_.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcLQHoTNwXS414E2vKhxJJqC8_JpO_6xW2NzGhQ_B3YjYBdKivurANwVNI8imE4Wfgz-UX5_37jGt9Nyz8_0WT27m_rGtz_ARJikv42wdyPaG45wCyFwT5Ggv2uUCtiSFil0V0bnUc77Y/s320/61yiBTk9HSL._SY679_.jpg" width="133" /></a></div>
</li>
<li>To replace the corrosion inhibitors and water pump lubricant, just add a bottle of <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Johnsens-4618-Radiator-Treatment-Lubricant/dp/B00C873HNK/" target="_blank">the very same thing</a>, also found at auto parts stores.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXA_wt7XZ0HsXeztsQaVEBSyxEYMmWKmU9YScxLNu0846vslKN2kLx4GtgQcDa46ntWvlByAfBkTUEeaqoyW-_gAs8EO3z3qZ9ZA5EJezjlw8B68qkxgercqvTzN-6u4y1yQrAL8iaMp8/s1600/41JPQ3VWWqL.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXA_wt7XZ0HsXeztsQaVEBSyxEYMmWKmU9YScxLNu0846vslKN2kLx4GtgQcDa46ntWvlByAfBkTUEeaqoyW-_gAs8EO3z3qZ9ZA5EJezjlw8B68qkxgercqvTzN-6u4y1yQrAL8iaMp8/s320/41JPQ3VWWqL.jpg" width="164" /></a></div>
</li>
</ul>
<div>
<br />
In the spring, drain all the coolant from the system, add the above ingredients to refill your radiator and top off with <i>distilled water</i> (never tap water - too many minerals and electrolytes that will cause scale and corrosion). <i>Most importantly</i>, write down how much water you use to fill the radiator because <br /><br />In the fall when cold weather is upon us in the fall, drain one-half of the water and replace with anti-freeze whether you will be driving your car in the cold or not. Why go to all this trouble? To keep your engine block from cracking as water expands when frozen . . . or don't -- it's your call.</div><div><br /><br /></div>
<div>
Every Spring and Fall: Lather. Rise. Repeat.</div>
Route 60 Garagehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14823453722775480673noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1440836046940765622.post-80038837243452590942016-12-08T14:28:00.001-05:002016-12-12T10:15:24.308-05:00Tools made by Danaher/Apex are sold as:Here for easy reference.<br />
<br />
Tools made by Danaher/Apex are sold as Armstrong, Craftsman, Masterforce, USA Crescent, USA Kd Tools, Kobalt, and a few others.<br />
<br />
Snap On also makes tools for Williams or CAT... maybe a few others. williams makes tools for others.<br />
<br />
<span class="_Tgc">J.H. Williams and Lowes originally partnered to manufacture Kobalt tools, but since 2003, Kobalt tools have been made by Danaher. </span><span class="_Tgc">Chervon makes Kobalt’s cordless power tools<br />Here's a good look at who owns who which leads to who makes what. </span><a href="http://toolguyd.com/tool-brands-corporate-affiliations/" target="_blank">Who Owns Who</a><br />
<span class="_Tgc"><br /></span>
<span class="_Tgc"><a href="http://www.gtin.info/" target="_blank">This site uses the tools barcode </a>to identify the manufacturer.<br /><br />A <a href="http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=136120" target="_blank">good thread</a> that identifies "tool truck" equivalents.</span>Route 60 Garagehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14823453722775480673noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1440836046940765622.post-6237678384755010482016-08-29T17:50:00.000-04:002016-08-29T17:50:21.468-04:00Engine TimingThis seems like pretty good advice about engine timing.<br />
<a href="http://www.badasscars.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=76/category_id=13/mode=prod/prd76.htm" target="_blank"><br /></a>
<a href="http://www.badasscars.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=76/category_id=13/mode=prod/prd76.htm" target="_blank">Where should I set the timing on my performance engine?</a><br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_av7nl4Xqco3jwVZkdLjHvnL5Y4tZRTArPcdjXf56j9OLxcACKUhB_gLuynxBdIF2HXBHlA-XlVNcSn0t5GAHzakFt8Vk7wPtGePlKuCExQviu43eOalK_fo82QNLzWjkHQ4MJFGj-gw/s1600/2016-08-29+13.32.15.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_av7nl4Xqco3jwVZkdLjHvnL5Y4tZRTArPcdjXf56j9OLxcACKUhB_gLuynxBdIF2HXBHlA-XlVNcSn0t5GAHzakFt8Vk7wPtGePlKuCExQviu43eOalK_fo82QNLzWjkHQ4MJFGj-gw/s320/2016-08-29+13.32.15.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />Route 60 Garagehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14823453722775480673noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1440836046940765622.post-58927147817277568412016-06-30T20:32:00.001-04:002016-06-30T20:54:16.657-04:00Improved SBC Timing Chain Oiling<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjP7dkzfT4esm0TEWLu2GiTwqNHkACnOGzDR7uFB82LLrdrqMftAnuvEstFoFHKWbUS4iqlYxoxpK_wApZDB6x_467KA_FEAf3pl9raYE6giIe8D2RslV2VJUIM8CEH4FTpC1Y__IwMtPI/s1600/oilpassageplugs.gif" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjP7dkzfT4esm0TEWLu2GiTwqNHkACnOGzDR7uFB82LLrdrqMftAnuvEstFoFHKWbUS4iqlYxoxpK_wApZDB6x_467KA_FEAf3pl9raYE6giIe8D2RslV2VJUIM8CEH4FTpC1Y__IwMtPI/s1600/oilpassageplugs.gif" /></a></div>
In the plug in the passenger side passage, drill out the plug 0.030" (1/32") to spray on the chain. You can also drill the other two plugs to release trapped air, but it's not necessary.<br />
<br />
You can tap the plug holes with a 1/4' pipe tap and use pipe plug, but use a shallow plug for the center hole so as to not to block the oil galley behind it.<br />
<br />
<br />
Oil pump pickup should be held 3/8' to /1/2" off the bottom of the pan. When located correctly, weld the pickup in place.<br />
<br />
REFERENCE<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/engines-drivetrain/83818-block-plug-basics/" target="_blank">Block Plug Basics</a>, Super Chevy<br />
<br />
"Most small-blocks feature four 3/8-inch threaded holes (two per side) at the front of the block. The upper hole adjacent to the fuel pump passes into the crankcase area and if left open will allow oil to leak out from the block. Be certain to plug this hole only with a short 3/8-inch bolt (1/2-inch long). Because this hole aligns perfectly with the fuel pump’s pushrod, a longer bolt will contact and seize the pushrod during engine operation."<br />
<br />
Grump's Performance <a href="http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/oil-system-mods-that-help.2187/" target="_blank">Oil System Mods.</a>Route 60 Garagehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14823453722775480673noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1440836046940765622.post-46263080301873303732016-06-30T20:23:00.001-04:002016-06-30T20:23:49.244-04:00SBC Higher Capacity Oil FiltersIf you have the room for the longer, spin on filters:<br /><br />The "longer high capacity oil filter" Purolator is L40084.<br /><br />"longer high capacity oil filter" N.A.P.A: # 1794<br /><br />"longer high capacity oil filter" AC Delco: PF932<br />
<br />
WIX 51459 ?<br />
<br />
WIX 51794 ?<br />
<br />
REFERENCE:<br />
<br />
Grumpy's Performance <a href="http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/oil-system-mods-that-help.2187/" target="_blank">Oil System Mods That Help</a>Route 60 Garagehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14823453722775480673noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1440836046940765622.post-39578463405129566742016-06-19T15:01:00.003-04:002016-06-19T15:15:42.176-04:00Handy MIG welding reference.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-ufLHI17l41EsaaBSd-MWJU4-Riq-N_SF2QSMQwQPRgdGKfCzA04W01_C0otBmyb_Qw5OrK1IrpHPQM1WuMmI4pbGTQc1V3Nf-yfKO3Jwa1jOObKw1WTyYcHRvwm1zZtVkzjs84avt9A/s1600/welding.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-ufLHI17l41EsaaBSd-MWJU4-Riq-N_SF2QSMQwQPRgdGKfCzA04W01_C0otBmyb_Qw5OrK1IrpHPQM1WuMmI4pbGTQc1V3Nf-yfKO3Jwa1jOObKw1WTyYcHRvwm1zZtVkzjs84avt9A/s320/welding.jpg" width="287" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMKDF2jROxQGyjFD0pugy__-imxuUfl7qYImgDYSakcxZAlPiD1aUINKcH9ftmYt7hwh0TQI1WZTFRXVjPfZZS1fwB-kr5Nx7cYNxgZXlkFjjJM07FsYgsEYKnI6SYBQy5CvE2mThJuNY/s1600/1374094fbc1839441bf0d1466a9a0bf7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMKDF2jROxQGyjFD0pugy__-imxuUfl7qYImgDYSakcxZAlPiD1aUINKcH9ftmYt7hwh0TQI1WZTFRXVjPfZZS1fwB-kr5Nx7cYNxgZXlkFjjJM07FsYgsEYKnI6SYBQy5CvE2mThJuNY/s320/1374094fbc1839441bf0d1466a9a0bf7.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdM-47hN5YUQcUU3axRarCqzd-Lpwlxdq1BVxVQZpanwiEhLF9WCkB-3u0WbGPXj9WOz8Wk0q93gvKixsoJD4kTnjuhJuZkYwmT2HEYdJC6KJmXNfFkbJ6MZ6fvVsqjf9FYJahNPYMfBM/s1600/3e151859364cf53d495c99173d6a0925.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdM-47hN5YUQcUU3axRarCqzd-Lpwlxdq1BVxVQZpanwiEhLF9WCkB-3u0WbGPXj9WOz8Wk0q93gvKixsoJD4kTnjuhJuZkYwmT2HEYdJC6KJmXNfFkbJ6MZ6fvVsqjf9FYJahNPYMfBM/s1600/3e151859364cf53d495c99173d6a0925.jpg" /></a></div>
<br />Route 60 Garagehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14823453722775480673noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1440836046940765622.post-89961770113458476092016-06-19T14:20:00.000-04:002016-06-19T14:20:43.579-04:00Typically , the best cruising range for an engine is from 2,000 to 2,400 RPM. Here are some formulas to help you calculate the best gearing for your car.<br />
<br />
mph = (rpm x tire diameter) ÷ (gear ratio x 336)<br />
<br />
rpm = (mph x gear ratio) x 336 ÷ tire diameter<br />
<br />
Gear ratio = (rpm x tire diameter) ÷ (mph x 336)<br />
<br />
Tire diameter = (mph x gear ratio x 336 ÷ rpm)<br />
<br />
<br />Route 60 Garagehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14823453722775480673noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1440836046940765622.post-81018015690811934582016-05-30T13:49:00.004-04:002016-05-30T13:49:46.084-04:00Gotchas for SBC TimingThere is a gotcha for timing for small block Chevys that can cause problems if overlooked .<br />
<br />
User "oldboogie" at the <a href="http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/low-vacuum-new-engine-build-434721-2.html#post3707954" target="_blank">forum</a> at <a href="http://hotrodders.com/">Hotrodders.com</a> said,<br />
<br />
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
Unless you appreciate that the crankshaft and damper pass the timing tab
twice in a revolution which puts different events happening at each
place because the cycles (of the cam) are happening at half the rate of
the crank. So for argument starting at a point where both the number 1
and number 6 pistons are at TDC lets say this in cam (thus distributor
position) is ready to fire number 1. At this same time the cam has
number 6 also at TDC of crankshaft but it is finishing the exhaust
stroke and will commence the intake at the same time number 1 is on a
power stroke. At this point if the timing cover was to be removed the
timing mark of the crank gear and the mark of the cam gear would both be
in the 12 o'clock position. <br />
<br />
Now rotate the crank one full turn, both number 1 and 6 are back at TDC
but number 1 is finishing exhaust and about to start the intake cycle,
while number 6 has finished compression and is about to fire and start
its power cycle. The timing mark on the damper is at TDC as the example
above, however, with the timing cover removed the crank gear mark is
again at 12 o'clock but the cam gear mark is facing it in the 6 o'clock
position.<br />
<br />
This quirk of the SBC catches a lot of engine builders including
experienced ones. the reward is an engine that seems to want to run but
doesn't quite get there.<br />
<br />
The other is the distributor being off a tooth, this is forced by
alignment of the oil pump drive which rotates with the distributor any
time it is removed. This drops what seems to be the TDC point by 27 and
some fraction degrees. The engine will start and run but has no power
and backfires a lot yet appears to be timed correctly. This also bites a
lot of people.</blockquote>
<br />
<br />
<br />
Route 60 Garagehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14823453722775480673noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1440836046940765622.post-2559071783710098942014-11-02T15:26:00.000-05:002017-06-10T13:08:05.213-04:00HOW TO MAKE SPRINGS by Dave Silberstein<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
Until a few years ago, Dave Silberstein maintained a great site at EarthLink that delved into the mysteries of making springs. It was very extensive. If you needed to make a spring, his site helped you do it. He even went so far as to publish the site contents in book form at Lulu.com. Sadly, both the site and the book are no longer available because Mr. Silberstein passed away in 2012 in a car accident.<br />
<br />
Such a valuable resource should not be lost. Fortunately, the WayBack Machine of the <a href="https://archive.org/" target="_blank">Internet Archive</a> has kept an archived copy.<br />
<br />
Here's the site map so you can get an idea of what's available and also so the search engines will pick it up. <br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmSMfPVQO1WkhHm2qBb8MYZZdntlIdpIK-DIHebsQkxULXIUzpFpgxKzyKFcHBjQrBHZ7xhA6rRWSqGsVnYSdir_mjYDM3dFTIUvNGSFXlvM6XElkdc9hqvEZSGvX2OwWOJSKRnR_sE48/s1600/springs_book.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmSMfPVQO1WkhHm2qBb8MYZZdntlIdpIK-DIHebsQkxULXIUzpFpgxKzyKFcHBjQrBHZ7xhA6rRWSqGsVnYSdir_mjYDM3dFTIUvNGSFXlvM6XElkdc9hqvEZSGvX2OwWOJSKRnR_sE48/s1600/springs_book.jpg" /></a></div>
<table border="0" cellpadding="6" style="font-size: 100%; width: 90%px;"><tbody>
<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><h1 class="blu">
HOW TO MAKE SPRINGS<br />
</h1>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td valign="top"><b><a href="http://web.archive.org/web/20130116000206/http://home.earthlink.net/~bazillion/intro.html">Introduction</a></b></td>
<td><br />Disclaimer, preface, description of the main types of springs</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td valign="top"><b><a href="http://web.archive.org/web/20130116000206/http://home.earthlink.net/~bazillion/design.html">Design</a></b></td>
<td><br />General principles, mathematics, design limitations, buying design</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td valign="top"><b><a href="http://web.archive.org/web/20130116000206/http://home.earthlink.net/~bazillion/matls.html">Materials</a></b></td>
<td><br />Types of wire and their attributes, buying wire</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td valign="top"><b><a href="http://web.archive.org/web/20130116000206/http://home.earthlink.net/~bazillion/safety.html">Safety</a></b></td>
<td><br />General safety, wire handling, opening and closing coils, coiling safety, wire storage</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td valign="top"><b><a href="http://web.archive.org/web/20130116000206/http://home.earthlink.net/~bazillion/equipt.html">Equipment</a></b></td>
<td><br />Winding machines, drills, hand winders, lathes, grinding equipment, finishing equipment, ovens,
passivating equipment, hand tools, testing equipment, tooling stock</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td valign="top"><b><a href="http://web.archive.org/web/20130116000206/http://home.earthlink.net/~bazillion/tooling.html">Tooling</a></b></td>
<td><br />Pickup pins, wire guides, looping plates and rods, layover plates, bending pipes, bending jigs,
passivating baskets, grinding stages</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td valign="top"><b><a href="http://web.archive.org/web/20130116000206/http://home.earthlink.net/~bazillion/setup.html">Setup</a></b></td>
<td><br />First coils, drill setup, hand winder setup, lathe setup, left-handed springs, coiling without a
lead screw</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td valign="top"><b><a href="http://web.archive.org/web/20130116000206/http://home.earthlink.net/~bazillion/torsion.html">Torsion springs</a></b></td>
<td><br /><br />Wire length, first trial spring, torsion spring ends, extended hooks</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td valign="top"><b><a href="http://web.archive.org/web/20130116000206/http://home.earthlink.net/~bazillion/extension.html">Extension springs</a></b></td>
<td><br />Wire length, first trial spring, loops, hooks, swivel hooks</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td valign="top"><b><a href="http://web.archive.org/web/20130116000206/http://home.earthlink.net/~bazillion/compression.html">Compression springs</a></b></td>
<td><br />Wire length, first trial spring, grinding the ends, squareness, free length adjustments, setting
solid, heat setting</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td valign="top"><b><a href="http://web.archive.org/web/20130116000206/http://home.earthlink.net/~bazillion/finish.html">Finishing</a></b></td>
<td><br />Tweaking dimensions, stress relief, passivation, plating</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td valign="top"><b><a href="http://web.archive.org/web/20130116000206/http://home.earthlink.net/~bazillion/types.html">Other types of springs</a></b></td>
<td><br />Buckling columns, nested compression springs, conical compression springs, variable-pitch springs,
snap-rings, double-torsion springs, wire forms, bedsprings, limited-travel extension springs,
braided wire springs, heavy wire, light wire, square and flat wire, tubular stock, leaf springs,
Belleville washers, clock springs</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td valign="top"><b><a href="http://web.archive.org/web/20130116000206/http://home.earthlink.net/~bazillion/shops.html">Spring shops</a></b></td>
<td><br />Organization, product costing and pricing, careers</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td valign="top"><b><a href="http://web.archive.org/web/20130116000206/http://home.earthlink.net/~bazillion/glossary.html">Glossary</a></b></td>
<td><br />Definitions of spring-related words, detailed diagrams of the major types of springs and their
parts</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td valign="top"><b><a href="http://web.archive.org/web/20130116000206/http://home.earthlink.net/~bazillion/resources.html">Resources</a></b></td>
<td><br />Sources of information, associations, spring shops, suppliers, and other related links</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td valign="top"><b><a href="http://web.archive.org/web/20130116000206/http://home.earthlink.net/~bazillion/credits.html">Credits</a></b></td>
<td><br />About this site; about me; and how to download this site.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td valign="top"><b><a href="http://web.archive.org/web/20130116000206/http://home.earthlink.net/~bazillion/spring_new.html">New stuff</a></b></td>
<td><br />This is an index page that provides access to new stuff added since January, 2003, and a chronicle
of updates to the main body of the site.
</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Here's the link to the entire website for <a href="http://web.archive.org/web/20130918155928/http://home.earthlink.net/~bazillion/intro.html" target="_blank">HOW TO MAKE SPRINGS.</a></span><br />
<br />
<br />
There is a slightly older version of the site available for download <a href="http://web.archive.org/web/20061215020544/http://home.earthlink.net/~bazillion/springs.zip" target="_blank">as a ZIP file</a>.<br />
<br />
A PDF version is hosted <a href="http://educypedia.karadimov.info/library/springs.pdf" target="_blank">here</a>.<br />
<br />
Here's a site that describes <a href="http://www.northernelectric.ca/medieval/maille/coiler/coiler.htm" target="_blank">a homemade spring coiler</a>. And two more sites for similar tools: <a href="http://mailmaker.tripod.com/tools.html" target="_blank">One</a>, <a href="http://mailmaker.tripod.com/winding.html" target="_blank">Two</a>.<br />
<br />
A YouTube <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VR83JRrtfVo&ytsession=6K6aLBkCKoqcSmTxaJC1Q74sYKQviPoOh6PSS-GF5ZByW0jgxTw0dy8wuIrF48N2i3oIgfj_3OQkO5ul4swr3ZSsJvnZPG3edb75AQcZUU9CUv6rnydTADQGFLLwG7JZTJ696PHlC7cT5l11kBoof7oqfwvh2fCGkpNl438rEUe_DSBCqkmmt9uE8cKWiXrWivL_V93IHAu7EQdkU9esP5dmjOfMybFM2mpfsQpXm3aYQjZC5JhpAzD1xGfHLGKEZ4Iya61gfw_wFR3giGuIfrlHLdtd9JqlE82tYcplW65pTRInYcg90VrMp3P3UPKAyUU1jsdGDzs7f05zkfUoL0Ud-FHtgg5KRcfFEKWqcJ9USdjAzjbY6ZkOG5Sb_FOm1313eR-I3_-krQ4nIe3qsgumjQdbUNF6AHjdj_mgYnEpi6LbOZdYllXdVcTEvvTxzL1Io_1xK3QYGbDk-mTRCUzzSmdZF5geniRZO4woOplz6iivUiKujHMdIffkyIGBsz2a42p_aawx3KnT1HzBJBQtfk68XlJKGvNxYGU9qVk0C9fhkpv7NxhV8_OsntEYnZrWr0h1Tt-GpncaRORFffTo5lMaECdu7zr_8c9TERJsnB0NghyNdpVNjXQ-yNJ5ho8VO0hG1bdBCOZf-wH4Aj_iUwwoJwj8dn9OJDC5SZrq6IxrdzNsn67VjW7N8GIZBEXyFrcyCk5Pd4s4YD0HQmmzdqER51jELznGDnBfWCluAna4ob8IadGMQC1V8quV3kEng1SsnbhmTchfjRVQsQzi9fDygmHkKIDtouMZFIOTIzKx9axkgocuvCRq_1w5TyMzVqaCXJqvNu3tlm_qRa14tjZa-B0tUiro2u0PIeSz8BfphXlPiBX7CMM5kCN0sA3rLPY06d-S4pdOdlUWNecDVwNRXq09mQDwRkwE9ttqf6E1TvyZnunTS5T3YV5PeEqA-VNsGRD0gdp8Iyct0npYFDChCH1idpBFul2kG_EmeF505PYUMUsu1b6gt-F9t53J9tGXEIaaBN_HoNgyyw" target="_blank">video of a spring winder</a>.<br />
<br />
DI-ACRO made a spring winder that shows up on eBay once in a while. Other manufacturers have made and make spring winding tools as well.<br />
<br />
Sean Michael Ragan has <a href="http://makezine.com/2011/03/30/how-to-make-your-own-damn-springs/" target="_blank">an informative spring-making site</a>. <br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.ctmuzzleloaders.com/ctml_experiments/tempering/tempering.html" target="_blank">Tempering</a> a spring.<br />
<br />
Also an excellent, down-to-earth HOWTO site for spring-making is<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"> <a href="http://www.metalsmith.org/pub/mtlsmith/V21.2/Springs.htm" target="_blank">Randy Hengl's</a>. He has an interesting approach to tempering the springs: burning them in motor oil.</span></span>Route 60 Garagehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14823453722775480673noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1440836046940765622.post-14784039468529982072013-02-04T23:44:00.001-05:002017-06-10T13:20:04.469-04:00My 15 minutes of fame. My '36 Auburn was mentioned in the <b><a href="https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=443844239018604&set=a.405313932871635.92491.389382291131466&type=1&theater">What Are You Working</a></b> On section of <b><a href="http://staceydavid.com/">GEARZ</a></b>.
<br /><br />Oh, well, fame is fleeting. In a major change for the Gears website, all of this information has been removed. 8(Route 60 Garagehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14823453722775480673noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1440836046940765622.post-1124808970287471782011-01-30T17:54:00.005-05:002017-06-10T13:18:26.539-04:00Cadillac Catera Power Seats<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghQYuTM2h17XxcXuxuGmeetqyhky5FcYVFn3vRsWjkCQvqfHMn8A0BCuqMYlhHJ52-D6wml4wUx62klSv4zywUDI-XG-ZSGSWptswbvaKP2g95rSwwz8KADfnW8jHodzeyQtg2EEFWPtw/s1600/catera.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5568117068481775026" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghQYuTM2h17XxcXuxuGmeetqyhky5FcYVFn3vRsWjkCQvqfHMn8A0BCuqMYlhHJ52-D6wml4wUx62klSv4zywUDI-XG-ZSGSWptswbvaKP2g95rSwwz8KADfnW8jHodzeyQtg2EEFWPtw/s200/catera.jpg" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; float: left; height: 134px; margin: 0 10px 10px 0; width: 200px;" /></a>The exquisite, leather-covered power bucket seats offered by Cadillac for their Catera (a re-badged Opel Omega; the same platform was also later used for the Pontiac GTO) are a great value for the streetrodder. From 1997-2001, about 95,000 were sold in the USA. The leather seats feature 6-way power (driver <span style="font-style: italic;">and</span> passenger; some are heated) and are made by <a href="http://www.recaro.com/">Recaro</a>. These are some of the most comfortable seats I've ever sat in and are frequently sold on eBay for $350 a pair .<br />
<br />
Really? Just $350 for a pair of such nice seats? Why are they so relatively inexpensive?<br />
<br />
The passenger seat is a conventional power seat with conventional relays and wiring. Wire up +12V and a ground and you're good to go. But the driver's seat uses solid-state relays and is connected to the car's main computer. As a result, many people believe that the seat won't work unless it's installed in a Catera and hooked up to the car's main computer. They are wrong.<br />
<br />
All you lose by not being connected to the Catera's main computer is the three memorized positions that the main computer can store. Still, many people could not get the seats to work. The secret is all in the wiring, but the solution is hidden in the Troubleshooting section of the Cadillac service manual.<br />
<br />
First, there are three +12V connections: two thicker wires and a thin wire. The thicker red ones (#1 & #3 in the service manual) are connected to an always-powered source. The thinner red one (#4) is connected to an accessory-powered source. The brown wires (#2 and #5) are the grounds. The data control wire is #6 and is not used. The <span style="font-style: italic;">secret</span> wire is #7, a thin grey wire. In the Catera, this is connected to the door switch that controls the courtesy lights. When this wire is not grounded (when the door is open), the seats will not move. I just grounded it permanently; it seems the GM engineers did not want you to move the seat with the doors open. It's also important to wire #4 to a circuit that is hot only when the engine is running or it will drain the battery. That's all there is to it.<br />
<br />
There are only two drawbacks to these seats. First, the Catera was four-door car, so these seats will not fold forward. If you used them in a two-door car, you won't have access to the rear seats. Second, they are wide, so without some modification to the seat cushion and re-covering, they are not usable in most 30's-vintage cars.<br />
<br />
But if they fit (or can be made to fit), you will have some sweet, comfortable Recaro 6-way power seats for your ride for just $350.<br /><br /><b>WIRING INFORMATION</b><br /><b>For wiring information, visit your local Cadillac dealership, explain what you are doing and ask to see their service manual for the year of manufacturer of the car the seats came from. Then find the technician diagnosis section for the power seats. That's how I found the info for may seats.</b>Route 60 Garagehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14823453722775480673noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1440836046940765622.post-12070376141727335872010-05-07T15:16:00.004-04:002010-05-07T23:22:46.659-04:00Adlan Eagle Shocks<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmlD57svhO3SSaEVCZdMkFS8I8wtr39yuSRTCH-JNoi3sJbG2DbzJ9aT7LnTXJ-dfV-VWDcGjMTaYbdsX6v2TSX23y92b_5ItzVT2Ume6sQ1kjgSF6abaFfKRPthuASMl0O52hrQxIyO0/s1600/ultimate_shock_onipaa_v2.jpg" style=""><img border="0" style="float: left; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 142px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmlD57svhO3SSaEVCZdMkFS8I8wtr39yuSRTCH-JNoi3sJbG2DbzJ9aT7LnTXJ-dfV-VWDcGjMTaYbdsX6v2TSX23y92b_5ItzVT2Ume6sQ1kjgSF6abaFfKRPthuASMl0O52hrQxIyO0/s200/ultimate_shock_onipaa_v2.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5468609570817322834" /></a>Aldan Eagle shocks have an excellent, well-earned reputation, but sometimes people get in the way.<div><br /></div><div>My '37 Plymouth coupe uses a ladder-bar and coil-over rear suspension installed by the owner of Hunter's Hot Rods in Pennsylvania.</div><div><br /></div><div>The shocks are red steel Aldans from about 10 years ago when the car was constructed. The coil springs don't carry the typical Alden paint ID so it's impossible to easily tell what the spring rate is; the shocks themselves have no model ID on them other than the Aldan logo.</div><div><br /></div><div>The original builder did a poor job selecting the shocks and springs. The springs were sized incorrectly (too light), as were the shocks themselves (too short as I later discovered) with the end result being the shocks would constantly bottom out, especially if I had any luggage in the trunk. Needless to say, the ride quality was awful and I decided to have the shocks re-built and get the appropriate rate springs (which I calculated to be 400#).</div><div><br /></div><div>I went to the <a href="http://aldaneagle.com/">Aldan web site</a> and sent them an email giving the specs of my installation and requesting a quote for re-building the shocks. Rather than an email address at aldeneagle.com, their email address used the <a href="mailto:aldaneagle@netzero.com">NetZero</a> domain. NetZero is a free-to-low-cost dial-up ISP. That should have been my first warning something would go awry.</div><div><br /></div><div>After a few days, I received an email from Ferrel Alan of Alden Eagle which asked me to call him at the business number. Why give an email contact if you prefer to do business over the phone? Oh, well.<br /></div><div><br /></div><div>We discussed my needs and I found him to be very knowledgeable and helpful. He suggested a shock that was physically longer than what I had and he agreed with my calculation on the spring rate. He also suggested that I use flexible bearings in the upper mount vice the standard rubber bushings because of the front-to-back movement of the shock due to the ladder bars. He then asked me for the mounting stud size and I could not find my notes and was not near the car. I later emailed the measurements to him.</div><div><br /></div><div>When we did get back together by phone, Ferrel seemed to have a difficult time recalling our conversation and did not have the stud size info, so I provided it again (5/8" top and bottom), asked that he add an ALD-20 shock spacer to the order and provided my credit card information. He shipped the shocks after I made a follow-up phone call to see why they had not yet shipped: "They went out today".</div><div><br /></div><div>When they arrived, the bearings were not included, nor were the ALD-20 mounting spacers that I ordered. When I spoke with Ferrel, he apologized and sent the bearings without additional charge but suggested that I contact the manufacturer of the spacers, <a href="http://welderseries.com/">Paul Horton</a> of Welder Series in Canada, since Aldan did not have any in stock. I did as he suggested and everything arrived in a few days.</div><div><br /></div><div>When I went to install the bearings, I discovered that the bearings only accommodated a 1/2" stud, not the 5/8" stud I had. I called Ferrel who said that the 1/2" bearing was all that would fit in the shock without extra machining and suggested that I contact Horton's or <a href="http://speedwaymotors.com/">SpeedWay Motors</a> to obtain a 1/2" shock stud. I have to wonder why he didn't tell me all that to begin with since he had the stud sizes?</div><div><br /></div><div>The shocks are now mounted and the ride is great, but I'm left in amazement at the customer service that Aldan's provided. The process should not have been so haphazard, drawn-out and frustrating, but maybe I should have expected nothing less from a business that uses NetZero to get their email.</div>Route 60 Garagehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14823453722775480673noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1440836046940765622.post-6663025902395601552009-09-05T16:05:00.008-04:002017-02-04T12:52:58.984-05:00Older Holley 4150 and 700R-4 TV Cable Problems<br />
I'm in the process of mocking up my re-built Chevy small-block to find unanticipated problems and have been very successful: I've run into a big problem.<br />
<br />
I'm using a <a href="https://docs.google.com/gview?a=v&q=cache%3AZrX6ZXNMkLIJ%3Awww.ustachallenger.com%2Fdata%2FCatalogs%2FWeiand%2F81.pdf+Weiand+142+blower+%22kit%22+P%2FN+6500-1&hl=en&gl=us">Weiand 142 blower "kit" P/N 6500-1</a> and Weiand's recommended <a href="http://www.prostreetonline.com/pso/images/products/HLY-0-80572S_m.jpg">Holley carb, P/N 80572</a> (it's a boost-referenced Holley 4150; tech info can be found <a href="http://holdenpaedia.oldholden.com/Holley_Information_Table2_3">here</a> and a HOWTO on modifying one to be boost-referenced can be found <a href="http://www.motorsportsvillage.com/modifycarb.html">here</a>).<br />
<br />
The problem is that I'm also using a 700R-4 transmission and the Holley carb, according to the instruction manual, " ... is NOT designed for use with ANY automatic overdrive transmissions." (Of course, they only disclose this in the installation instructions; it's mentioned nowhere else. <a href="http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=farging+bastage">Farging bastages</a>.) This incompatibility with an AOD is my big problem.<br />
<br />
Obviously, what they are really referring to is not a Hatfield-McCoy (or PC-Mac) kind of incompatibility, but the lack of any appropriate bracketry associated with the throttle cable attachment point so that a TV cable can even be attached. This also means that Holley's "solution" (<a href="http://www.holley.com/20-121.asp">P/N 20-121, their 700R-4 kickdown throttle bracket</a>) has NOTHING to mount to. Even if it did (and I have one), the geometry is all wrong, only pulling the TV cable through a 30 degree arc instead of the required 78 degrees. That may be why others have had a problem with their 700R-4s even when using the Holley bracket.<br />
<br />
Working from info at <a href="http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/techinfo/700R4p1.html" target="_blank">Sumner Patterson's site</a>, I found I could modify/construct a bracket to add the 700R-4 functionality that Holley left out. You'll need to construct a diagram of the sweep of the TV cable stud following the <a href="http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/techinfo/700R4-2.jpg" target="_blank">drawing</a>, but Sumner's directions weren't clear to me at first. You'll need a compass, a protractor and a ruler that reads in 1/10ths of an inch. The TV cable stud moves in an arc whose center is 1.094 " to 1.125" from the throttle shaft center. From closed throttle to WOT (wide open throttle), the arc is 78 degrees. First, mark a point on some card stock; this is the center of the throttle shaft. Draw a vertical line through this point. Set our compass between 1.094 " to 1.125"; Sumner used 1.1" which is about the middle of the two, and draw a circle. This circle represents the arc that the TV cable stud follows. Using your protractor, make a line 55 degrees from the vertical line just like in the drawing. Now make another line 78 degrees from that just like in the drawing. One reason the drawing is confusing is that you'll never see the cable sitting on that vertical line; that's just used as a reference to get the other lines drawn in the correct location. To finish, make a horizontal line at 90 degrees to that vertical line about 1.25" below the shaft center point. That horizontal line must be held parallel to the bottom of the carburetor. Cut the card stock like Sumner shows <a href="http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/techinfo/700R4%20TV-1.jpg" target="_blank">here</a> and read his detailed version of the process <a href="http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/techinfo/700R4p7.html" target="_blank">here</a>.<br />
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To work through the details, I constructed a piece of card stock with the correct geometry , located the correct placement of the TV cable stud, and mocked up a solution. <span style="font-style: italic;">I noticed that the Holley bracket, if installed according to their directions on a newer 4150 carb that has an extended bracket will not track the correct geometry.</span> I will simply cut up the otherwise-useless Holley 20-121 bracket and welded it to the carburetor in the appropriate place. Based on my mock-up, the TV cable stud will move through the correct geometry from closed to WOT. In theory, I've solved my problem, but there's a lot more to understand.<br />
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It's also important to position the TV cable bracket at the back of the carburetor correctly in relation to the stud on the carburetor. The distance will vary because there are different length cables in use. The way to measure yours is detailed <a href="http://www.hotrodders.com/gallery/data/500/700R4-1.jpg">here</a>. The cable needs to run parallel to the base of the carburetor as well. My next step is to modify the bracket I have to get the correct location. No one said this was going to be easy, but an improperly installed cable will ruin your 700R-4 in short order.<br />
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There's a good overview of how the 700R-4 throttle valve works <a href="http://www.tvmadeez.com/article/index.php">here</a>. A nice FAQ about the 700R-4 <a href="http://700r4.com/faq/faq.shtml">here</a>. And a speedometer gear calculator for both the 700R-4 and 200-4R<a href="http://www.bowtieoverdrives.com/index.shtml"> here</a>. It seems the best way to check if your 700R-4 is adjusted correctly is to hook a pressure gauge up to it and observe the readings from idle to WOT. <a href="http://www.bowtieoverdrives.com/I">BowTie Overdrives</a> provides a <a href="http://www.bowtieoverdrives.com/Instructions/BOW%20TIE%20OVERDRIVES%20INSTALLATION%20GUIDELINES.pdf">PDF document</a> describing the installation and setup of a 700-R4 or 200-4R transmission plus info on measuring for a driveshaft and wiring a lockup switch and brake relay switch. They recommend a 0 to 300 PSI gauge and 7 feet of hose and a 90 degree 1/8" NTP fitting. The pressure gauge is attached to the direct pump pressure port on the driver’s side of the transmission which is about 3-1/2" above the manual shifter shaft. They don't provide the "full Monty" of the test (or the pressures), but do offer a briefer "field test" on pages 16 and 17. The suggested pressure is 65 to 80 lbs at idle for either transmission; too high a pressure at idle will start you in second gear; too low a pressure will cause it to slip. The pressure should spike when you leave a stop light and if it doesn't, the tranny is slipping. A good discussion is <a href="http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=104681">here</a>.<br />
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I used the "<a href="http://www.tvmadeez.com/tvcable_instructions/stockcable.php">standard</a>" method:<br />
<ol>
<li>Depress the adjustment button and collapse the adjustment sleeve.</li>
<li>Releasing the button, move the throttle to WOT; the cable self-adjusts.</li>
<li>Attain adjustment Nirvana.</li>
</ol>
You raise the pressure by pushing the cable adjuster back into the cable, preferably doing it a click or two at a time. What seems to be critical is the distance the cable travels from closed to WOT and doing it at a steady rate. That's why the geometry is so important; bad geometry moves the cable at an uneven rate and so varies the pressure at an uneven rate causing improper shifting and resulting damage. From <a href="http://www.73-87.com/7387garage/drivetrain/tvcable.htm">73-87.com</a>: "<span style="color: black; font-family: "verdana"; font-size: 0;">To raise throttle pressure (and raise shift points, and make "kickdown" more responsive) move the cable housing towards the firewall (away from the throttle linkage), as you simultaneously depress the button on the cable housing, move the cable housing away from the carburetor or (throttle body) to increase throttle pressure. Move the cable housing adjustment a small amount at a time (1 click or 1/16" or so), a small adjustment can often make a world of difference. Naturally, to lower the pressure (and lower shift points, and make "kickdown" less sensitive), move the cable housing towards the front of the truck.</span><br />
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<a href="http://www.cpttransmission.com/tech_tvcable.htm">Here</a> is a good discussion of not only adjusting the TV cable, but measuring critical distances including the length of the cable itself.<br />
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You should always use a transmission cooler with a 700R-4 because heat is a killer for transmissions. The stacked-plate coolers are superior to the serpentine coolers. I always use the B&M #70264, rated at 14,400 BTUs; it's their biggest one. You can find stacked-plate coolers on Volvos in the wrecking yards. BandM also makes a fan-cooled remote-mount version, # 70297<b style="font-weight: normal;">, but you should be able to fab something up for less that the $250 they sell theirs for. Ugh.<br /><br />Problem solved; the transmission will work great!<br /><br /><b>UPDATE: </b></b><span style="font-weight: normal;">I finally rebuilt the SBC and Wieand blower. Since I had the 700-R4 out, I sent it out to be rebuilt (and it was completely worn out owing the the completely wrong installation by the previous owner). The new blown engine and re-built 700-R4 works great!</span><b style="font-weight: normal;"><br /><b></b></b>Route 60 Garagehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14823453722775480673noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1440836046940765622.post-78075440990688482002009-04-30T00:58:00.005-04:002021-01-14T14:59:37.507-05:00Keeping Your Compressor Quiet<a href="http://i.imgur.com/HeGWm.gif" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" src="https://i.imgur.com/HeGWm.gif" style="cursor: pointer; float: left; height: 240px; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; width: 300px;" /></a><br />
Air compressors are noisy machines. The two most commonly used ways to quiet them down are to locate the air intake outside (not good for the neighbors) or to build some type of enclosure with sound deadening material inside; that usually causes overheating problems due to poor circulation.<br />
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The best solution is to construct a silencer that uses the same principles as a gun silencer. But isn't that illegal? Only if you use it on a gun. We're using it on an air compressor. Still, this topic seems to be controversial, mostly by people who have a <span style="font-style: italic;">bury-your-head-in-the-sand</span> approach to security and safety.<br />
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Here are the materials:<br />
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<ul>
<li>Pipe the same size the air compressor port will use, 16"-18" long.</li>
<li>Some exhaust pipe, the same length as the other pipe.</li>
<li>Some washers you have to make with a hole saw, enough to put one on each end and one every 1-1/2" that will fit around the air compressor intake port pipe and fit inside the exhaust pipe.</li>
<li>Steel wool to fit between the washers.</li>
<li>A drill and a 1/4" drill bit to drill holes in the smaller pipe between the washers.</li>
<li>A welding machine to weld the washers to the small pipe and to the large pipe at the ends.</li>
</ul>
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Since the silencer will be heavy, use a 90-degree fitting and mount it vertically.<br />
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Some <a href="http://www.gun-shots.net/suppressors-silencers.shtml">links</a> to <a href="http://www.gun-shots.net/make-silencer.shtml">sites</a> that describe how silencers work and how to <a href="http://www.ehow.com/how_4472299_make-gun-silencer.html">construct</a> <a href="http://www.gunslot.com/blog/how-make-gun-silencer-common-materials-self-defense">silencers</a> can help you <a href="http://www.ehow.com/how_2164696_paint-ball-gun-silencer.html">understand</a> how the Air Compressor Silencer is constructed. If you Google for "gun silencers", you'll find lots of sites, so we're not divulging secret, hard-to-find information and, unless you're dumb enough to build one for a gun, not breaking any laws. If you think so, the terrorists have already won and you are not thinking of the children.<br /><br />8,000 Views!<br />... and not one comment except SPAM. 8(Route 60 Garagehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14823453722775480673noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1440836046940765622.post-66435308100436473562009-04-30T00:45:00.002-04:002014-05-31T14:16:59.558-04:00What Pipe to Use for Your Shop's Compressed Air?<a href="http://www.askthebuilder.com/artman212/uploads/1/296_1.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" src="http://www.askthebuilder.com/artman212/uploads/1/296_1.jpg" style="cursor: pointer; float: left; height: 90px; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; width: 125px;" /></a>Many people use Schedule 40 PVC pipe and that choice is - <span style="color: red;">OSHA ALERT</span> - <a href="http://www.osha.gov/dts/hib/hib_data/hib19880520.html">potentially dangerous</a>. Under pressure, PVC can explode when it becomes brittle with age or exposure to UV light or when struck by an object. But there <span style="font-style: italic;">are</span> a lot of shops piped with Schedule 40 PVC. If you choose to use it against all advice, at least consider the stronger Schedule 80 pipe and fittings, keep the pipe protected from things that may fall on it and don't hammer near it. PVC is smooth inside which means less pressure drop from friction.<br />
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There are ABS pipes, <a href="http://www.ipexinc.com/Content/Products/Product.aspx?ProductId=28&SubMarketId=9&MarketSegmentId=1&LanguageCode=en" target="_blank">Dura-Plus</a> and <a href="http://www.penaplas.com/capiping.htm">Chem-Aire</a>, that are <a href="http://www.ipexinc.com/Content/EN_CA/2_0_Products/2_1_Industrial/2_1_4_Compressed_air.asp">rated for compressed gas use</a>. The cost is roughly twice that of Schedule 80 PVC. Dura-Plus comes in a metric size (colored blue) and an industrial size, colored gray; the blue pipe cannot be threaded for standard pipe threads. Chem-Aire pipe is green.<br />
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Schedule 40 black iron pipe is a popular choice and is very sturdy and durable. It's also heavy and awkward to install and will rust inside, not only adding scale to the air, but increasing friction and causing increasing pressure drops over time. Galvanized Schedule 40 is a better choice, but more cumbersome to work with and also requires some specials tools.<br />
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Copper pipe is lighter and easier to install, and comes in three types. <b>Type L</b> is identified with blue markings and <b>Type K</b> is identified with green markings; both are strong enough to use. <b>Type M</b> is marked red and is <i>not</i> recommended since it is only rated for 125 PSI; that won't leave much of a margin for error. Copper is smooth inside which means less pressure drop from friction; this matters for long runs of pipe.<br />
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Of course, you could always use stainless steel pipe and compression fittings or even the very cool (but ridiculously expensive) <a href="http://www.garage-pak.com/">Garage Pak</a> system which uses a coated aluminum pipe and special fittings. All that expense does buy a product that is easy to use.<br />
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There is also <a href="http://catalog.compressedairsystems.com/viewitems/piping/aluminum-pipe" target="_blank">Compressed Air Systems</a> which sells coated aluminum pipe. This looks like what I saw at Harbor Freight.Route 60 Garagehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14823453722775480673noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1440836046940765622.post-14174726363121128502009-04-29T22:00:00.003-04:002014-11-04T19:18:49.005-05:00The Science Behind Piping Your Air Compressor<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIZlZK9mW3UUfvt96Lr11i0AKo8p4FfhurVk6HpvGkR8WVq1Vs4KXWtLh6eu_VdXSymNI33OllxBB8i2TcwXbMykuXyZ5_IJDpDszWLcngFc5VLzg9KiVVaT-eB5CokYkd1CBeLNABOQw/s1600-h/draw08.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIZlZK9mW3UUfvt96Lr11i0AKo8p4FfhurVk6HpvGkR8WVq1Vs4KXWtLh6eu_VdXSymNI33OllxBB8i2TcwXbMykuXyZ5_IJDpDszWLcngFc5VLzg9KiVVaT-eB5CokYkd1CBeLNABOQw/s200/draw08.jpg" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5330339928415971810" style="cursor: pointer; float: left; height: 150px; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; width: 180px;" /></a><br />
How many of us have spent hours examining compressor horsepower and CFM ratings, reading shop forum posts and comparing prices to decide what the "perfect" compressor for our shop will be, but then connect a few Harbor Freight air hoses and wonder why the tools don't run well and spit water everywhere?<br />
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A well-written article at the <a href="http://www.chemicalprocessing.com/articles/2005/12.html?page=1">ChemicalProcessing.com</a> website delves into the science behind piping your shop's air compressor. In brief, our problems arise because we do not have a properly-sized pipe system to deliver the air to the tool.<br />
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Compressed air will lose pressure because of the friction from the walls of the pipe. This is expressed in pressure drop per 100 feet of pipe at a particular pressure for a specific diameter of pipe. Of course, designing a proper system is not simple because there are many factors that affect the performance other than pipe size.<br />
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Another point made in the article is that the velocity of the air through the system is rarely considered. Why does it matter? When the velocity is less than 20 FPS, moisture and debris are not pushed past traps and can be easily drained away. When the velocity is greater than 30 FPS, all the moisture and debris is blown out of the tool you're using. So if you have a long run of small diameter pipe or hose,the velocity is high and stuff shoots out of the tool along with the air. Does that sound familiar?<br />
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To further complicate matters, the tables are designed under the assumption that un-compressed air is being pushed through the pipe. Compressing air increases the volume of air that flows through the pipe, so some more calculations are necessary to adjust the figures and you'll need to determine the ration of atmospheric pressure to the pressure of the compressed air. You'll need to know the average air pressure in PSI where you live; at sea level it's 14.7 PSI and that will drop as elevation increases. What's yours? Remember, Google is your friend.<br />
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Generally speaking, the larger the diameter of the pipe, the better off you'll be. A table of inner and outer pipe diameters can be found <a href="http://www.bakersfieldpipe.com/pipechart.html">here</a>. A table showing the pressure drop per 100 feet of Schedule 40 pipe is <a href="http://www.engineersedge.com/pipe_flow_capacity.htm">here</a>. You can see the problem we face: using a small diameter pipe (or hose) to reduce pressure loss will increase the velocity of the air which explains why so much water gets past those filters and traps. But if we use a large diameter pipe, we need higher pressure at the receiver (the tank) to compensate for the pressure drop. The benefit is less water and debris blown out the tool, but a more powerful compressor is more costly.<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><u>The Quick Soultion</u></span></b></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<b><span style="font-size: x-small;">At some point, somebody sat down and calculated a rule-of-thumb guide to piping you shop, based upon quite a few assumptions that probably aren't correct for your shop. That "rule" is 3/4" for the mains and 1/2" for the drops. That usually works OK for a small garage shop, . . .but maybe not.</span></b></div>
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Read the article, work the math (you can get your kids to help), and you'll be able to see why you have so much trouble with compressed air at your shop. Having understood well enough to have done the math, you'll be able to understand how to go about improving your own system and improve it. Better yet, it can help you design a good system from scratch.Route 60 Garagehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14823453722775480673noreply@blogger.com1